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[光明日报]一瓯凉粉

发布时间:2018-08-17 16:41:08  作者:洪忠佩  来源:光明日报  点击数:载入中…

    月光下,我给儿子讲到木莲或者薜荔的时候,仿佛在说着江南乡村邻家女孩的名字。母亲听后,笑了,说哪有这么文气,不就是凉粉子嘛。是呢,在我婺源老家的方言里,玉米叫苞芦,茄子称萝苏,而木莲与薜荔,就是凉粉子。这样的名字,像乳名,亲切、上口。母亲是从什么时候开始用凉粉子做凉粉的,她自己都不记得了。在我心里,母亲那盛着凉粉的青花瓷瓯,盛着老家的夏天。

    凉粉子藤蔓的霸道,在我的婺源老家是出了名的。乡村的古树上、老墙边、溪塝旁,处处是凉粉子藤蔓攀缘的身影。我家的菜园子就在老屋的背后,半截残墙让凉粉子藤蔓罩得严严实实的。藤蔓上吊着的凉粉子,不仅牵引着父老乡亲的目光,还吊住了“小把戏”(小孩)的胃口。在老家,几乎整个夏天都可以采摘凉粉子。少年辰光,我曾经与母亲一起采摘过,懂得采凉粉子的艰辛。采摘的时候,一般会避开毒辣的日头,能爬树的爬树,不能爬树的要借助木梯上上下下,通常是两三个人协作,有的负责采摘,有的负责扶梯,有的负责提篮,一个个忙得不亦乐乎。也有用采乌桕籽的长柄钩镰采摘的,但技巧很难掌握,一钩,凉粉子如果掉在地上就伤着了,不新鲜。刚采摘下来的凉粉子,外皮颜色偏青,样子像秤锤,果柄上会冒出白色的汁液,黏糊糊的。母亲趁着天气晴好,用刀削去凉粉子的青皮,再剖开,放入竹筛竹盘中拿去晾晒。

    母亲制作凉粉的方法比较简单,却耗费气力。她先把晒好的凉粉子装在布袋内,置于陶缸或木桶中,用山泉水或井水浸泡,并勒紧袋口用手反复揉搓,一次次地挤出凉粉子内乳白色的汁液。随之而出的,仿佛还有淡淡的清香。一而再,再而三,待挤出的凉粉子汁液呈浓稠状,就可以取出布袋。约莫半个钟头,汁水自然而然凝成了晶莹剔透的凉粉。这样的凉粉,称得上是乡村天然的果冻,口感凉凉的,宛如水磨豆腐花的嫩滑,却多了些许韧性。

    在我的老家,村里人吃凉粉不欢喜加蔗糖,大多用食盐、姜末、蒜泥、香葱凉拌调味。讲究的人家,有加些许蜂蜜,抑或薄荷叶调味的,也有加野生百合的,那应是另一种味道了吧。一碗凉粉捧在手里,入口即化,似乎还没来得及品出味道,就滑下肚里,有意犹未尽之感。在乡村还没有冰棒、冷饮的年月,一瓯凉粉成了夏夜消暑的奢侈享受。清楚地记得,我是在课堂上学过李白的《静夜思》后转入县城上学的。秋季开学后,我每晚都在思念着老家月光倾泻的夏夜,还有那一瓯滑爽清凉的凉粉。当年,我还以“难忘的凉粉”为题,写了一篇作文寄给上海的《少年文艺》。在编辑老师的来信中,我才知道凉粉子的学名叫薜荔,亦称木莲。后来,我在一本《江西草药》的图谱绘本上看到它的名字,说藤叶可药用,性味酸而平,具有清热消炎等功效。这些年,在县城夏夜的街上,时常有卖凉粉的吆喝,如今的凉粉是冰镇的,还加了白糖,但味道似乎不如母亲做的纯正,盛凉粉的塑料餐具更是比不上母亲的瓯。

    母亲盛凉粉的瓯,是产自景德镇的青花瓷瓯,通体泛着白净的釉光,几朵青花绽放在瓷瓯的外壁上,格外雅致。瓷瓯内的凉粉呢,俨如圆圆的镜面,稍稍抖动,就如嫩豆腐般颤动。用瓷匙轻轻舀起,流线型的凉粉安静地躺在瓷匙上,莹润而生动。在夏夜里,凉粉还泛着月光般的色泽。星星、月亮、竹椅、蒲扇、凉粉,以及母亲在月光下讲述的故事,似乎是乡村夏夜的标配。

    每年的夏季,月光仿佛是老家发出的请柬,让我一次次回到生我养我的村庄,去品尝凉粉的美味。在此起彼伏的蛙鸣合唱中,夏夜月光的皎洁,以及母亲那一瓯凉粉的清凉,总会一同进入我的梦乡。

【编辑:万俊奇】
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